The Obscenity of Tradition

An interview with Saint Lothain vigneron Didier Grappe, the Jura's foremost proponent of hybrid grape varieties.

A native of Poligny and a former industrial mechanic, Saint Lothain vigneron Didier Grappe began planting his estate 2001, after winemaking studies in Beaune. (There he’d been a classmate of future Roussillon natural wine pioneers Jean-Louis Tribouley and Bruno Duchêne.) He converted to organic agriculture in 2007, and subsequently gradually eliminated …