The Unbroken Circle of Bulles de Comptoir

In 2020, the iconoclastic Aube vigneron Charles Dufour began a long-term project of reintegration of finished champagnes from his father's stock into his celebrated cuvée Bulles de Comptoir.

Charles Dufour in his cellar, August 2021. Photo: Jade Ambre.

The dashing and stylistically-daring Landreville vigneron Charles Dufour’s production evolved, throughout the 2010s, from an initial dalliance with parcel cuvées to an emphasis on his singular réserve perpetuelle cuvée, “Bulles de Comptoir.”

In 2020, he moved his aesthetic goalposts once agai…