TASTING: Bottled Alive 2022

Three halls of Central European natural wine in the south Bohemia town of Tábor.

Moravian vigneron Martin Vajcner, right, at Bottled Alive 2022.

As a slightly absurd warm-up to this season’s natural wine salons, I drove with my girlfriend, our dog, and my friend Oliver Lomeli of Paris wine bar and wine shop Chambre Noire in mid-January from Strasbourg to the south Bohemia town of Tábor, where Czech natural wine impresario Jan Čulík …