Lassoing a Bull with Didier Barral

The Faugères übermensch behind Domaine Léon Barral has a flair for creating memorable moments. A summer 2019 visit took an unusual turn.

THE BULL AMONG THE COWS

If you spend any amount of time near the tiny Faugères AOP hamlet of Lenthéric, you invariably cross paths with Didier Barral, the renowned, polarizing vigneron behind Domaine Léon Barral. He is so ubiquitous as to give the impression he surveilles the village. He’ll be chatting with a neighbor or an employee by the side of the ro…