For Gilles and Catherine Vergé, Even Water Is Disputable

A talk with Mâconnais vignerons Gilles and Catherine Vergé, founders of VINS S.A.I.N.S., on the origins of their association and their beef with organic certification.

Since leaving their local cave cooperative in 1998, Mâconnais vignerons Catherine and Gilles Vergé have captivated open-minded natural wine tasters with their genre-busting, long-aged, often boldly oxidative chardonnays. In 2012, the couple founded the radical natural wine association VINS S.A.I.N.S., whose members forswear sulfite addition in all wines…