Dining on the Wine Trail: Omegn & Venner, Copenhagen

A pleasing - and merciful - sense of anonymity belies the craft that imbues every aspect of a meal at Sarah and Denny Backer-Vangsted's Torvehallerne lunch counter and épicerie.

“Good,” said my Copenhagen sommelier friend, when I told him I was perched, hungover, at the counter of Omegn & Venner, a multivalent lunch counter and épicerie in the city’s central upscale food market, TorvehallerneKBH. “That’s where I was going to tell you to go.”

On that first visit, in November 2021, I had drifted there almost at random, lured by t…