Dining on the Wine Trail: L'Echanson, Nancy

Back vintages and savory tartes at Serge & Alexandre Mercier's pioneering natural wine bar and wine shop.

Among the most memorable characters I have encountered on the natural wine routes of France is Nancy caviste and bar-owner Alexandre Mercier, who since 1996 has run L’Echanson on the central rue de la Primatiale. (In 2000 he was joined in the business by his brother Serge.) Gaunt, bespectacled, often clad in a badass biker jacket, Mercier resembles an a…