Dining on the Wine Trail: Le Gibolin, Arles

Catching up with pioneering natural wine retailer Luc Desrousseaux at the old-town dining destination he runs with his sommelière partner Brigitte Cazalas.

I’ve come to Arles to see Luc Desrousseaux twice over the last two years. Both times he’s had a glass of Max Breton’s primeur in hand. It’s a funny reminder of Desrousseaux’s continuing fidelity to the early Beaujolais natural vignerons he played a key role in supporting at his former Paris wine shop, L’Echanson. A contemporary of early vin sans soufre …