Dining On the Wine Trail: EPICERIE, Saint-Etienne-des-Oullières

With backing from natural vigneron Rémi Dufaitre, Charlotte Poirier's gourmet grocer and wine bar is spicing things up in the Beaujolais.

I was running late for my appointment to taste Rémi Dufaitre’s Beaujolais primeur, so he instructed me to meet him at EPICERIE, the new gourmet grocer and wine bar he helped open last December in his native Saint-Etienne-des-Oullières. I asked him what the address of EPICERIE was and Dufaitre, in characteristic fashion, simply snarled, “It’s in the vill…