Dining on the Wine Trail: Chai Christine Cannac

Time stops at this Bédarieux cave-à-manger, where veteran sommelière Christine Cannac offers charcuterie, tapenades, and sought-after back-vintages from legendary natural wine estates.

Empty storefronts and a substantial gypsy community are what you notice on a drive through Bédarieux, a hardscrabble Orb river town just over the mountains north of Faugères. Its backstreets are home to German émigré vigneron Axel Prüfer and, more recently, the Breton-Romanian duo L’Absurde Génie des Fleurs. But Bédarieux’s modest town square is not whe…