David Léclapart's Philosophical Choice

Talking biodynamics and prise de mousse with Trépail visionary David Léclapart.

David Léclapart in his pinot noir at La Fleuranne in Trépail. Photo: Jade Ambre.

Among my most valued takeaways from my time working as sommelier at Table restaurant in Paris was an appreciation for the champagnes of the celebrated Trépail vigneron David Léclapart, whose work is otherwise little-seen in Paris or France.

In the course of streamlining the …