Côteaux Champenois at Champagne Ruppert-Leroy

Bénédicte and Emmanuel Leroy's as-yet-unreleased still wines are primed to raise the bar in the Côte des Bar and beyond.

In the years since I first visited the estate in 2014, Emmanuel and Bénédicte Leroy of Champagne Ruppert-Leroy have proven themselves the most ambitious and radical Champagne vignerons of their generation. Avowed biodynamicists and horse-plowing adepts who constructed their own bioclimatic timber house, the Leroys carry their superhuman verve right into…